Once Clive’s measurements were expertly turned into his own paper pattern, it was ‘struck out’ (marked) onto the cloth and cut, ready to be trimmed and given to the tailor. Clive chose himself a maroon lining with a slight paisley pattern, which complimented the cloth quite nicely. It turned out to be myself and Dino that were to make the coat, so I have first hand experience of the making process from hereon in. Below you can see the jacket once a ‘baist’ (fitting) was produced, and myself and Peter in the fitting room with Clive, who was trying his jacket on for the first time. Only minor alteration was required, including ‘picking up’ the shoulders in the back, drawing in the back scyes and shortening the sleeves. Once this was marked onto the garment and the pattern adjusted accordingly, it was ready to be ‘ripped and smoothed’ (taken apart) and remade into the finished garment.
Below you can see a close-up of Clive’s cloth. The coarse texture of the yarns and weave meant that as soon as a chalk mark was made, it was at risk of coming out as soon as the cloth was handled. Unsurprisingly, the making process alone used up eight pieces of chalk!