When wearing your bespoke suit, it is always nice to add a few extra details to really complete the Savile Row look. Having recently purchased a fob watch, I was looking for a charm to adorn the end of the chain, that would be very personal and relate to the trade. After spending time looking in various jewellers, I happened to come across this antique pair of gold tailor’s shears. After completing my purchase, I was amazed to find that despite their size, they actually work! In the picture below you can see how it looks when worn through the lapel hole of my jacket, not forgetting my gold tie pin in the famous Denman and Goddard house tie!
Dino and I were tasked with making a baist (fitting) that was destined to be displayed in the shop window, showcasing the artisanal coat making that we strive to uphold at Denman and Goddard. It is double-breasted, and made from a black chalk stripe worsted. Through the skills of both the cutters and tailors in house, we have been able to match all of the stripes where possible and ensure that the eye can effortlessly flow over the jacket, with no lines being broken and the cut clearly defined. If you look at the photo below, you can easily see how all of this attention to detail really makes the bespoke suit a true piece of beautiful craftsmanship.
We were recently approached by sheep farmer and friend of the shop; Clive Todman, who gave us the opportunity to embark on a unique project that would truly encapture the very essence that makes Savile Row tailoring so personal. He was to commission a jacket that would be made of wool from sheep that he had hand reared on his farm in Wales. In the images below, you can quite literally see the grass roots of where his jacket began, and get a rare insight into the beginnings of the whole lifecycle of a jacket, from the field to the fitting room.
Rob shears Jessie, a Black Welsh Mountain Ewe.
Miss Ellie, a White Welsh Ewe is shorn.
The fleece is delivered to Curlew Weavers, Troedyraur, Rhydlewis, Ceredigion, SA44 5RL, to be turned into cloth.
The wool is then washed in the mill’s scouring room, ready for blending.
It is then blended, ready for the carding machine.
It then passes on to the carding machine, which disentangles, cleans and intermixes the fibres to produce a continuous finish in the yarns.
The yarns are then spun.
They are then wound, ready to be woven.
Weaving begins, and the cloth finally starts to take form.
Clive collects one of three bails of cloth from the mill. Four different designs of cloth are woven, so that Clive can choose his favourite during a consultation with Peter Day.
Clive meets in London with Peter Day and presents him with the cloth.
After having his measurements taken Clive chooses his cloth, lining, and style of jacket. As the lengths of cloth were to hand, they could be draped over him in the most traditional way, giving an authentic impression of what the cloth would look like against his skin complexion should it be a finished garment.